Keenan Winery's 2012 Vintage: Great Holiday Wines!

Michael Keenan winery sits atop Spring Mountain, a stunning peak amidst Napa Valley.  The journey there involves winding roads that slowly ascend through full, low-hanging trees against a backdrop of blue sky.  When you finally arrive, you are ushered into an open, airy tasting room that overlooks acres of vibrant green vineyards.  And the wine is just as beautiful as the scenery.

Michael Keenan winery, located on Spring Mountain

Winemaker Michael Keenan takes a conservative approach when creating his wines.  He relies on natural processes to bring out the true character of each varietal.  At the same time, he is willing to embrace change when appropriate.  He adapts his blends, harvest times, and techniques to play to the strengths of each growth.  He has also made adjustments to the winery itself, such as using solar power to provide energy and expanding the tasting room.  Keenan Winery is a nonchalant fusion between old and new world.

This past month, I had the chance to preview some of the wines from the upcoming vintage.  I sampled the 2012 Napa Valley Merlot, the 2012 “Mailbox Vineyard” Merlot Reserve, the 2012 Napa Valley Zinfandel, and the 2012 Spring Mountain District Cabernet Franc.  As I tasted each wine, I knew that these four reds were quintessential holiday wines.  Lush, full, and flavorful, they will be perfect as the temperatures start to dip.  They will also perfectly complement foods of the season.

 

First, I poured a glass of the 2012 Napa Valley Merlot.  Merlot fell out of favor a few years ago when the movie Sideways lambasted it, but it has been slowly staging a comeback.  If a bottle of Merlot were to prove once and for all the grape was worthy of our admiration, this would be it.  Up front fruit flavors like black cherry and raspberry made it accessible.  However, as the wine opened, deeper notes of cocoa and earth emerged.  I loved how a “big” wine could still be easy-drinking.

I would recommend the Merlot for any occasion.  Of the four, I would consider it the crowd-pleaser.  It consists of 100% Merlot and approximately 2,770 cases are produced.  It can be purchased for about $39.

The "Mailbox Vineyard" on the Keenan Estate provides grapes for their Reserve Merlot

 

The “Mailbox Vineyard” Merlot Reserve is the Napa Valley Merlot’s more sophisticated, brooding counterpart.  All of the grapes herald from the Keenan estate itself.  Specifically, they come from 11 acres of rocky soil situated along the mountainside.  This is the 9^th year of the “Mailbox Vineyard” Merlot Reserve.  This year, only 400 cases were made.

The 2012 vintage drank beautifully.  Compared to the flagship Merlot, this bottle was more nuanced.  To me, it had darker, black fruits and earthier characteristics.  The intense flavors were cloaked in a full, velvety body where I could almost feel the sediment.

The “Mailbox Merlot” is the perfect gift for the wine enthusiast.  A collector will appreciate its complexities.  The bottle is also incredibly age-worthy.  It retails for about $70.

The 2012 Cabernet Franc is another limited, 100% estate wine.  2012 in particular made for an exceptional release.  Keenan called the year “nearly flawless” and playfully deemed the resulting wine “freakishly good!”  They created just 480 cases.

The Keenan wine cellar

 

Like the “Mailbox Merlot,” the Cabernet Franc is incredibly complex, full, and rich.  It’s slightly more esoteric though, as Cabernet Franc remains a less popularized varietal.  The Keenan Cabernet Franc has flavors of red and black fruit, with underlying notes of spice and bell pepper.  It is robust in texture, but elegantly balanced.
The Keenan Cabernet Franc is the perfect accompaniment for a more intimate holiday gathering.  It is seems destined for succulent red meats like prime rib, lamb, and steak.  Wine mavens will appreciate its quality and idiosyncrasies, while guests can enjoy the superb pairings.  It sells for about $68.

The final wine, the Zinfandel, drank the lightest of the four.  I was impressed by how delicate and balanced the wine was.  Zinfandel can be a plush, sweet wine bursting with cherry.  The 2012 Napa Valley Zinfandel was soft and refined.  I had no trouble drinking it with and without food.  Therefore, I would recommend it for a holiday cocktail party, where food might be smaller passed hors d’oeuvres.

Happy holidays and cheers to the 2012 vintage of Keenan Winery wines!

Learning to Crawl: A Night With Fairfield County Dischrawl

Baro's appetizer trio

The city of Fairfield has always offered a number of choice dining options with its classics like Centro, Old Post Tavern, and Willie’s BBQ which was featured on “Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives.”  However, an explosion of restaurant openings has transformed it into a sought-after foodie destination.  From Meccha Noodle Bar to Baro New WorldCantina to Geronimo’s, you can’t drive far along the Post Road without spotting a new must-try eatery.  On Wednesday July 30, Fairfield County Dishcrawl sought to introduce guests to this emerging culinary hotspot with a tour in the city of Fairfield.

Dishcrawl provides the chance to experience three restaurants in one night- a food version of the infamous pub crawl.  The organization covers 250 cities in the US and Canada, and is currently expanding into the UK.  This particular night cost $45 per person, exclusive of drinks.

The Fairfield branch is under the leadership of Kelly Fazzino, a Stamford resident with a passion for food and infectious energy.  Admittedly, Fairfield County Dishcrawl has a speckled past, but since Kelly’s recent hiring they have put on one immensely successful event after another.

Another fun component of Dishcrawl is the secrecy; diners do not know the destinations until the night of the event.  Clues are dropped on Facebook and Twitter in the days leading up to the event, but ultimately the journey is a guessing game.

Two days before Dischrawl, participants received an email instructing us to meet at Baro at 7pm.  I have adored Baro since its opening; their gourmet twists on Latin street food are both delicious and inventive.  As usual, Baro proved a class act.  Smiling servers greeted us as we entered.  After checking in with Kelly and donning nametags, we made our way to the bar where the bartender, Jason, made a show of mixing unique and tasty cocktails.  I received a new summer addition to the drink menu: Island Peach.  I don’t always equate bourbon with summer time, but the drink proved otherwise- it captured the season in a glass.

Baro's bartender Jason serves up cocktails for guests

We mingled with drinks in hand for about 20 minutes as the rest of the participants trickled in.  Once assembled, we were ushered into the restaurant’s beautifully lit private dining room.

The room contained three large tables, giving the 30 or so guests the chance to socialize and swap stories.  The crowd was diverse.  It spanned a number of generations and included friends, couples, and independent diners alike.  Some had heard about Dischrawl by word of mouth while many had read about it on websites with events round ups, like CTBites.  It drew people from across the county.  My table included people from as far South as Stamford and far North as Trumbull.

As we chatted, the servers presented us with a trio of signature Baro appetizers: a fish taco, a chicken antichurro (skewer), and an empanada.  Reyes came out to explain each component to the room for a full-fledged foodie experience.  The taco sat on a mini homemade tortilla.  The meaty fish was adorned with pickled vegetables.  It was a wonderful blend of textures and fresh flavors in just a few bites.  The antichurro proved equally delicious.  I sometimes think of chicken as plain and unexciting- the safe choice at a restaurant.  This chicken, however, had a slight char and a glaze that made it juicy and tasty.  Finally came the empanada with a crunchy homemade pastry shell, queso fresco, and ground beef.

I would like to note that Dischrawl- and the restaurants we visited that night- did an excellent job of attending to my dietary needs.  I have a sensitivity to dairy, which I had the chance to note on Dishcrawl’s website when I ordered my ticket.  Despite the disclaimer, I was still skeptical.  As explicit as I am about it when I place orders, several restaurants still get it wrong.  However, Dishcrawl and Baro took great care of me.  Instead of the empanada with the buttery pastry outside and cheese filling, they presented me with an arepa, which had a white corn cake base, pulled brisket on top, and a garnish of micro greens.  Yu!

As I finished off my plate, we were given a heads up that we would be moving to the next location around 8:00.  This gave us time to close our tabs, savor the final bites, and thank the crew at Baro who had been so hospitable.  We began our journey to the next restaurant- still a mystery- though social media had hinted at comfort food.  We made our way down the Post Road on foot as a massive group (I’m sure it was an interesting sight to onlookers!)

Anna Liffey's comfort food

In about a quarter of a mile we stopped and began ascending a flight of wooden stairs to an upstairs venue and home of our next Dischrawl stop: Anna Liffey’s.  The Irish bar has enjoyed popularity in New Haven and it recently opened the second location in the space that used to be the Skybox Lounge.  It’s known as a great spot for brews, sports, and live music.

This stop proved more rustic and homey than the previous setting.  From the upstairs location to the wooden décor to the beers on tap, Anna Liffey’s embodies the casual pub atmosphere.  While Baro had cocktails shaken and garnished, the bartender at Anna Liffey’s served pint after pint of foamy Irish beers.

The servers were attentive and efficient at the pub; all of the food was ready at once and the servers put a plate in front of each of us systematically.  The cuisine matched the spirit of the place.  We received a plate with generous portions of bar staples: fish and chips, a slider, and jalapeno poppers.  The fish was fried to an amazing golden-brown… a guilty pleasure to be sure and possibly heart-attack inducing… but definitely delicious!  The slider had siracha, garlic, and onions, which imparted extra flavor.  It truly was comfort food in all its glory.

Like Baro, Anna Liffey’s did an excellent job of accommodating my dietary needs.  My slider came without the dairy components and instead of the fish and chips I received three garlicky grilled shrimp.  I enjoyed each element and appreciated the care they took.

We embarked for our third and final destination around 9:00.  Once more, we followed the crowd to an unknown location… and wound up at 55 Degrees wine bar.

55 Degrees provided an elegant, intimate atmosphere conducive to the last stop of a fun trip.  It afforded us the chance to spend time with the people we came with, get lost in jazzy music, and sip on wine.

The group mingles and relaxes at 55 Degrees Wine Bar

Unfortunately, the food and service fell short of expectations.  We sat for a long time before a few servers came around to tables at random times to ask if we wanted drinks.  A while later they brought out the food, but instead of a plate it was passed food of miniscule portions.  There were chicken skewers smaller than my pinky that we could put on paper napkins.  They also came around with tiny cheese balls (no dairy-free option there.)

Biscotti dessert

We sat for about a half-hour waiting for something else to happen: perhaps an explanation of the small passed dishes or another course as we’d heard rumors of something sweet.  It was almost a full hour after arriving that 55 Degrees finally came out with a piece of biscotti for each of us.  A chocolate dipping sauce and side of whipped cream helped elevate the presentation.  55 Degrees was a beautiful spot- but the restaurant seemed to view us as an afterthought.

To her credit, Kelly filled the time by mingling with tables, thanking us for coming, and getting feedback about the evening.  Fun and engaging, she spoke to each guest and made us feel at home.

All in all, I enjoyed the evening immensely and the laughter, comments, and excited guests implied that the others did as well.  Baro’s creative, classy cuisine and Anna Liffey’s comfort treats more than made up for the issues at 55 Degrees.  And Dishcrawl is more than just the food- it’s an entire social experience.  I loved being a part of a group of strangers with a shared interest, walking the sidewalk and sharing a beautiful summer night.  I definitely recommend it. 

Cooking Creations: Giving Thanks for a Happy Thanksgiving!

Last year (after multiple glasses of wine, I’m sure) I promised that no matter where I was or what changed in our lives I would host Thanksgiving dinner for my parents and any other family members and friends who wanted to make the trip.

My grandmother had always been the Thanksgiving matriarch. She prepared dinner for my parents and I along with my aunt and grandfather- a stroke patient bound to a wheel chair for almost 30 years. When she passed away, we attempted several different versions of a Thanksgiving meal from a trip to Shenandoah National Park to a colonial times re-enactment dinner. Ultimately we got sick of the shenanigans. My burgeoning love of cooking afforded a solution. I started helping my mother cook so that we could make our own dinner in our condominium.

Then my parents moved. I decided to undertake the ambitious task of preparing an entire Thanksgiving dinner for us in my humble apartment- turkey and all- as they travelled down.

The attempt wasn’t without debacles… but in the end we had fun and we pledged that I would carry on my grandmother’s legacy. I felt entrusted with a sacred institution. Now I have a menu of my own that we look forward to each year. I’ve helped create new traditions. Today, I actually have something that I can pass on- and share with you. Here are the food staples that appear on my table each year:

The turkey- Last year was the first time I did a turkey by myself. I did everything but the bird- doing most of the sides while my parents tackled the poultry. When it came time to stand on my own, I had no idea what to do. A friend suggested I brine it, so I googled the term and looked for recipes. I found thousands of results- a zillion brining procedures and recipes that all seemed to offer something radically different. Panicked, I sent a tweet out into the internet universe to some of my favorite celeb-chefs… and was shocked to get responses! David Burke suggested orange juice and jalapenos. It sounded DELICIOUS but perhaps too untraditional for something like Thanksgiving. Carla Hall suggested her own recipe. The sugar addition frightened me at first, but she assured me it would not be overly sweet. I selected her brine as the winner.

I followed her instructions and added some herbs that I enjoy. At the last second I deviated even more and added my own touch: a handful of edible lavender that I purchased from Williams Sonoma. This turned out perfectly- imparting an extremely subtle floral note to the turkey that truly complimented the rosemary, thyme, and other flavors.

The final hurdle was how to baste the turkey. Dairy doesn’t sit well in my stomach, and I was hesitant to put a coat of butter on the bird. I also didn’t want to fry it up or cover it in oil either- both options seemed like they might result in heart attacks. I turned once more to twitter and asked if I could combine chicken broth with a bit of oil to cover the bird. People responded yes so long as I put on plenty of liquid and made sure to add more if it seemed dry during the time in the oven. The tactic worked produces the most well-cooked turkeys we’ve ever tasted. It gets crispy and brown on the outside, but stays perfectly moist on the inside.

For side dishes, I have two tried and true recipes that I return to every year. The first is my own concoction: roasted squash. I always use a mix of butternut and KABOCHA (also known as Buttercup) squash. The kabocha squash does not come pre-cubed, but its sweet taste makes it totally worth the work. I add a small amount (1-2 tbspoon) of maple syrup as well as salt, pepper, and garlic. I then put WHOLE twigs of fresh rosemary over the top of the squash (which I cook up in a glass casserole dish). The whole thing cooks at 400 F for about 40 minutes. I pop it in as soon as the turkey comes out. The time the turkey sits and is carved offers the perfect time span for the squash to get slightly brown and very tender.

The second is Brussels Sprouts with Cranberries, something I found on Food & Wine’s website: . I love Gail Simmons and the recipe was included in a slideshow of her favorite recipes. The part that I found most intriguing was the use of wine. The recipe begins with steeping dried cranberries in Riesling to play off the sweet and sour tastes. Brussels Sprouts aren’t known for being a crowd pleaser and my father is certainly not their biggest fan. However, he shocked us by declaring them his favorite side of the evening over last year’s table.

There are other items on the table: cranberry bread, stuffing, potatoes, etc… but the squash and cranberries are my additions to the family’s traditions!

And there’s always pie!! I use the apple pie recipe from the Buttercup Bake Shop. The secret ingredient? Apple butter spread inside for extra apple flavor! I also love the topping. It is a mix of crumb and crust so you get the best of both worlds. I use small leaf cutouts to shape extra crust into decorations for the top as well. The recipe can be found in the Buttercup Bake Shop Cookbook.

So here’s to another happy thanksgiving! And I wish you the best for the upcoming holiday season!

Wine-ings: A Special Tasting of TURKISH Wines... at the Russian Tea Room!

The Russian Tea Room is a New York City landmark. Its interior filled with tiny Russian dolls, jeweled ceramic eggs, and Eastern European artwork has enticed visitors since its debut in 1927. As a young child, I thought of it on a mythical scale, reserved for only the most special of occasions. It was an out-of-body experience when I had the chance to attend an elite wine tasting in the upper levels of the legendary restaurant. I did not even know that anything existed above the dining room itself; my jaw dropped as a hidden elevator opened to reveal exquisitely decorated long halls with high ceilings.

So how did I come to be behind the scenes at this remarkable New York City destination? A few weeks ago, I was invited to attend a tasting hosted by The House of Burgundy. The house has been importing wine since 1934. The event was particularly special because many of the wines were gems still finding their way to the U.S. market or soon to be released. Equally exciting were the bottles’ origins; many of them heralded from regions not yet recognized for their wines like Lebanon, Bolivia, and Turkey.

I have embraced Middle Eastern wines for some time. Last year, I explored Lebanese wines in my Winesday column for CTBites. After the Mohegan Sun Winefest, I labeled the Vinkara Wines from Turkey as "wines to watch." The evening was a once in a lifetime opportunity for me to fully immerse myself in wines from the region. I loved all of the night’s offerings, but the wines from Turkey particularly captured my attention.

I was astounded at the number of Turkish wines represented that evening. Four vineyards came and each brought between 4 and 9 bottles. It’s mystifying to me that an entire region full of talented, busy winemakers has flown under the radar for so long. The lack of exposure seems to breed the misconception that the wines from the area are somehow amateur. Elizabeth Fried of House of Burgundy recognizes the struggle.

“It’s a discomfort,” she theorizes. “Most people aren’t looking for something new. They’re looking for something safe.”

What most people don’t know is that Turkey is one of the oldest wine-producing regions. Archaebotanists believe that the grape itself was discovered in Eastern Anatolia. They have also dated viticulture in Turkey back to 7000 years ago. The country is said to be home to between 600–1200 indigenous varietals. Another false assumption is that such an exotic birthplace must create bottles that compete with American foods. I have found that the wines from Turkey pair with the foods I love more artfully than any of the other bottles I have encountered.

First, I stopped at the table devoted to Corvus Vineyards located in Bozcaada, Turkey. The owners began as architects, but felt wine was their true calling. They went on to open a successful wine bar in Istanbul. They have wines at various price points. The Karga White and Red are more wallet-friendly options. The white is a blend of two indigenous varietals: Vasilaki and Cavus. I found it full of body- on the spectrum of Chardonnay. The red is 70% Kuntra, a local grape, and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon. The addition of Cabernet makes it especially palatable. The “Cruturk” lies at their higher end at about $150 a bottle. It contains 93% Cabernet Sauvignon and 7% Cabernet Franc. It was one of my favorite wines of the evening. It was round and full, bursting with notes of pepper and soil. I would put it up against any coveted Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.

Next, I went to Kavaklidere Wines, one of the “oldest and largest wine producers of Turkey” according to House of Burgundy. This 5371 hectare vineyard is in Anatolia. Unlike other producers who frequently turn to internationally known grapes, Kavaklidere focuses almost entirely on indigenous varietals. They too have tiers of price. They start at the Selection series and move up to the Ancrya series. They work their way up to the Prestige, Ergeo, Pendore, and Cotes d’Avanos lines respectively. Of the selection products, I most enjoyed the Beyaz 2010. It was a white bottle, a 50/50 blend of Narince and Emir. Mild oaking and the Narince gave it a fuller body reminiscent of Chardonnay. The Beyaz had less weight than the Ancrya Narince though. The Emir lent the Selection vino a light crispness that the 100% Narince did not have. I fell in love with the rich palette of the Ancrya Narince immediately. At around $15, it is a true steal. The Prestige wines are made differently. Rather than use oak, they use stainless steel to enhance the flavor of the local grapes. The Cotes d’Avanos goes a step further by letting the grapes sit on the lees. All were delicious.

I then journeyed over to Suvla. I was familiar with them from the Greenwich Food & Wine Festival; Greg von Hess of Val’s Putnam Wine & Spirits brought a few of their wines with him that day. The family-owned vineyard is located in Eceabat. They have won a number of international wine contests and have participated in the Masters of Wine and Master Sommelier Weekends in Turkey. I loved each and every one of the wines Suvla had to offer. The Sauvignon Blanc was toasty while retaining a touch of minerality. Hess applauded it for its “big mouth feel.” The reds proved equally delectable. The Sur 2012 was more Bordeaux style. It combined Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot. It had the succulence of black fruit without becoming overly heavy.

“None of them have a lot of tannins. They are very clean,” explained von Hess. Selim, the vineyard owner, confirmed his assertion. He revealed that the wines are “unfiltered and have low sulfites.”

My favorite wine of theirs was the Sir. The wine had a handwritten label, embodying the novelty of the bottle before me. Salim referred to it as more Rhone in Style. It was a true study in texture- exuding in flavor while being velvety smooth.

The fourth and final table belonged to Urla. The name refers to the name of the town when it existed over 500 years ago. The wines were literally brand new; the first shipment went through customs the day before the tasting. Overall, this was one of my favorite tables of the evening. The fact that the wines were Turkish could have been revolutionizing enough, but Urla pushed the envelope even more. For example, they are the only Turkish vineyard to utilize Nero d’Avolo, a notoriously Sicilian varietal. The Chairman, Can Ortabas, recounted how they saw the potential in the Sicilian grape when no one else did.

“It was though of as ‘cheap’ but there was something in it,” he recounts. “It was powerful with lots of forrest fruit.” This was one of my favorite wines of the evening. It is the perfect balance of spice and fruit. I detected blackberry and plum on the nose and tongue. It would make the quintessential holiday wine.

I cannot wait to get my hands on these wines. However, the Turkish wines are still awaiting their debut to the U.S. Market. For now, they are only available on a small scale.

“Right now it’s all about who you know,” the representative from Corvus lamented. “You have to know where the pockets are.
Fortunately, the future for the wines is bright. Hopefully, they will be available on our shelves in the upcoming months.

“I believe in these wines; I see the potential,” Fried declares.

She is not alone. I attest to the quality of these wines and hope that the American market embraces them. They are magnificent; a delicious embodiment of history and terroir.

Von Hess summarizes their glory artfully:

“Welcome to the New Old World Turkish Wines....10,000 years in the making.”

Cooking Creations: Coq a Riesling... and Cranberries and Squash!

“What do you want to do for fun while you’re here?,” my Mom asked me from across the breakfast table. I had just arrived in New Hampshire to visit my parents for the weekend: a much needed respite after an intense stretch at work and the daily grind.

“I just want to cook,” I replied. “I just want to go into the kitchen by myself for hours and slice and dice.”

“Ok….” She looked perplexed, but I could tell she was trying to be accepting in her motherly way. That afternoon I did exactly that. I meticulously selected one of the recipes I’d saved for when I had time to cook for myself. I wanted the perfect, seasonal dish for my first foray back to cooking. I chose “Coq Au Riesling,” a recipe from the October issue of Food & Wine. Normally I would shy away from chicken and opt for something slightly more ambitious. However, I found the addition of the Riesling intriguing in this case. I love cooking with wine and Reisling’s hints of apple and citrus epitomize an autumnal beverage.

The original recipe called for the quintessential vegetable trio: carrots, celery, and onions. Those certainly impart flavor to meat upon simmering and I use them often. At the same time, I wanted to capitalize on fall produce. Autumn’s harvest bounty makes it my favorite time of year for cooking. I decided to add kabocha squash to the mix. This variety is sweeter than acorn or butternut squash. Sometimes called “buttercup,” it is sweet enough to be used as a substitute for sugar pumpkins in pie.

In another moment of inspiration, I got the idea to toss in cranberries. I recalled another recipe I had retrieved from Food & Wine years ago for Brussels Sprouts. They published it for Thanksgiving and now I make it every year; it’s a family Thanksgiving favorite. It starts with cranberries steeped in Riesling. Then they are added to Brussels sprouts. The wine cuts the tartness of the berries. At the same time, the remaining touch of sourness goes well with the earthy vegetables. I figured that adding cranberries to this dish would serve a similar purpose.

I used chicken thighs instead of the “split chicken legs.” I think chicken thighs are underappreciated when it comes to poultry. The dark meat gives them a bad reputation, but in actuality they are very close to chicken breasts in terms of calories and overall nutrition (skinless and trimmed). They are also extremely affordable- way more economic than breasts or cutlets.

Basically, my revised preparation and play on the recipe went as follows below. Overall, I omitted the mushrooms entirely, going with squash and cranberries instead. I also left out the creamy components of the sauce. As the squash breaks down, it imparts a creamy texture without using any dairy.

1. Preheat the oven to 300°. Season the chicken with salt and pepper. In a large, enameled cast-iron casserole coated with cooking spray, heat 2 tablespoons of the canola oil. Add half of the chicken and cook over moderately high heat, turning, until browned, 8 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Cook the remaining chicken, then pour off the fat and wipe out the casserole.
2. Respray the dish with cooking spray. Add the squash and sauté until just starting to get tender, about 5 minutes.
3. Add the onion, carrot, celery and shallots and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until the vegetables are softened and lightly browned, 8 minutes. Add the wine and simmer for 1 minute, scraping up the browned bits from the pot. Add the chicken stock and thyme and bring to a boil.
4. Nestle the chicken in the casserole; cover and braise in the oven for 40 minutes-1 hour, checking its progress. About 5 minutes before it seems done, add the cranberries and return the dish to the oven.
5. Garnish with tarragon and serve.

It turned out delicious! I am critical of my own recipes, but to me this marks one of the best family dinners I’ve prepared.

Leftover bonus: The vegetable part of this (all but the chicken pieces) goes great with eggs! I used them to make a “frittata” of sorts with the squash serving in lieu of potato. I broke an egg into a skillet with cooking spray, let it settle for about a minute, and layered the mixture over it. You can also fold it to make it more of an omelette.

Baro: Raising the "Bar, O!" So Much Higher in Fairfield County

I had never heard of Baro prior to the Community Plates Fundraiser that I covered for CTBites. Although the venue was studded with the who’s who of local restaurants, Baro blew guests away with an ambitious choice: oxtail! After that evening, I knew that I had to try the restaurant itself. It is located on the Post Road in Fairfield, which is an area I frequent and that is easily accessible. An encounter was destined.

Baro markets itself as “a new world cantina”- a phrase that mixes modernity with the old world. As I result, I did not know what to expect of the space itself. The first thing we came upon was a separate outdoor dining area that reminded me a bit of a safari outpost. Wooden supports lined it and gave it the feel of being enclosed. The restaurant itself maintained a touch of that desert rusticity via a large mural of a latin-esque landscape with pastel colored buildings. At the same time, the interior introduced a more upscale lounge vibe. Yellow lights hung from the ceilings casting a sexy glow over the diners and illuminating a sleek bar. The dark furniture had clean modern lines. Guests could sit in regular tables or high-tops in one section of the dining room. Baro also gives diners the chance to sit on stools at a counter overlooking the grill where the cooks prepare the food. We chose the latter. All that separated us from the fire, spice, and aromas was a thin sheet of glass.

Baro’s selection of wines by the glass impressed me immediately. Some new restaurants will stick to vino that they know will please the masses. Baro had traditional crowd pleasers, but also had more esoteric types on the list. For whites, those wanting a familiar varietal could choose from Albarino, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay. A more adventurous drinker, on the other hand, might opt for Portuguese Vinho Verde, a Verdejo from Rueda, or the Garnacha Blanco. I contently sipped the Verdejo, which proved deliciously herbaceous with a touch of minerality and green fruit. The reds by the glass contained many Spanish wines, including 2 Tempranillos. I was especially intrigued by the Cellers Can Blau “Can Blau” Rhone Blend from Montsant, Spain. I associate that type of blend with France and loved seeing one that heralded from Spain instead.

Baro devotes an entire menu section to “antichuros” or “skewers.” These grilled-to-order kebobs have become a signature of the restaurant. I love eating adventurously and the antichuros provide numerous opportunities for this from the “corazon,” beef hearts, to the “higado,” or chicken liver. We ordered the “corazon” along with the “pulpo” (octopus.)

The beef hearts arrived cooked to perfection. They were a beautiful medium-rare and each bite felt juicy and tender. I enjoyed the crispy shallots on top as well; they provided a slight crispiness to the dish to compliment the soft meat. The only critique I have deals with the sauce. The “rocota salsa” turned out to taste akin to cocktail sauce. While good, I would have preferred something more spicy, ethnic, and unexpected.

The pulpo… wasn’t pulpo. As we split the plate, we slowly realized that the meat was not octopus. There was no chorizo or chimichurri either. I returned to the menu and suspect that they gave us the “pollo” instead which is jerk chicken, pineapple salsa, and scotch bonnet ketchup. I did enjoy the sauce that it came with. This condiment had the latin flavors that the first lacked. It also had a twist: it started out deceptively sweet and then packed a punch of pepper at the end. On the other hand, I am disappointed that I did not get to try the octopus and chorizo. The chicken was fine, but at the end of the day I feel like I can get a chicken skewer with some type of diced fruit salsa at any grill.

Baro offers 2 types of guacamole: traditional and “verano.” The verano caught my eye because it was untraditional; it included mango, peach, habanero, and pomegranate. I enjoyed it a great deal. The pieces of fruit were refreshing. They complimented the smooth avocado, but also eased the bite from the peppers. The pomegranate seeds added a few crunches of texture. The best part, though, were the “chips” that the guacamole came with. Rather than use tortilla chips like so many restaurants, Baro served crispy plantain skins. They were thin, crunchy, and subtly sweet.

(Admittedly, Baro did attempt to deliver the traditional version of their guacamole to our table. Fortunately, we caught it before digging in and they replaced it. Despite the mix-ups- and the fact that I still want to try that octopus - I definitely recommend it. Just make sure you ensure your order is yours as it comes to the table!)

After splitting the antichuros and guacamole, we each ordered a taco. The server informed us that they were a small portion, amounting to about three bites. Had we not ordered the other small plates, we may have considered getting at least two apiece. I found my single petite taco hearty, flavorful, and perfectly sating when combined with the rest of the meal. I selected the “carnitas,” a combination of roasted pork shoulder, white onion, cilantro, and hot sauce. The meat was succulent. The heat from the hot sauce, bite of the onion, and zest from the cilantro played off of each other in my mouth. The tortilla alone was a prize. Although technically a soft taco, it was slightly more crispy and flour-y than the oft used commercialized versions. (Perhaps it was stone ground? It had a very homemade texture and taste.)

Despite the preceding assortment of food, I nodded enthusiastically when the waitress offered us a dessert menu. I was not surprised to see churros available. However, I enjoyed the liberties they took with the rest of the offerings; they transcended the usual Spanish/Latin staples. The very first item was a sponge cake. Pineapple and rum gave it a tropical cantina flair, but cakes don’t always make the cut in other restaurants with similar cuisine. Another example was their version of flan. While flan is commonplace in a “cantina,” Baro upped the ante by offering a chocolate flan. We decided to split that (though- confession- I pretty much wound up hording it for myself because it was delicious!) They used the perfect amount of chocolate: enough to impart flavor, but not enough to make it overly rich or heavy. The disc of flan itself tasted wonderful on its own, but all of the elements on the plate made a perfect bite when combined. The caramel sauce, lightly whipped cream, and mint leaves provided the final flourish.

Both my friend and I remarked on how well Baro handled the pacing with which they presented the food. As you can see, we ordered a handful of small plates. We did not allocate courses or specify when we wanted them to come out. Baro did it expertly and easily. The guacamole came out first. About halfway through eating that, the antichuros came out. The tacos were brought out once the antichuros were done. It was seamless and enjoyable. We never felt overwhelmed- there was never too much food in front of us all at once. At the same time, we never felt like we were waiting for the next plate. Working with small plates can be challenging for even the most experienced restaurateurs. It was remarkable how adroitly the relatively new eatery navigated it.

I definitely consider Baro a new personal favorite. In some ways it is still new and finding itself, but the potential is enormous. I believe that it will be one of Fairfield County’s eponymous, destination eateries in the months to come.

Baro
1229 Post Road
Fairfield, CT
(203) 292-9560
http://baroct.com/

Pictures courtesy of Baro's Facebook page. Visit them:
https://www.facebook.com/BaroCT1

Cuisine Couture Takes Kuwait: Why Eating Dessert is "Posh"

When I think of the word posh, my mind can’t help but revert to an image of Victoria Beckham: pursed lips, giant sunglasses, sky-high strappy heels. So when I heard the name “Posh Café,” I thought it must be an oxymoron- even if unintended. Victoria hardly seems like a person who would frequent a common café (or who eats much of anything for that matter.) Yet, I was told that the food was delicious and the desserts were decadent. Plus, the restaurant is owned by the same parent company that franchises Figs. Oxymoron or not, I knew I had to try it. I ventured over with a friend on my day off.

Our corporate chef is one of the coolest culinary anomalies ever. He heralds from Hong Kong and has the skill and palate for sophisticated Asian dishes. However, he spent significant time in England, which exposed him to European food styles. And now he works in Kuwait. He knows the Kuwait market intimately and the preparations that they favor. He takes fusion to a whole new level: weaving Asian touches into traditional Euro and American favorites, all while catering to the Middle Eastern clientele.

The first dish I tasted, “lobster toasts,” exemplifies his dexterity. The dish consisted of three fried mini sandwiches of sorts. The structure sort of resembled an oreo (albeit a gourmet, savory one.) Lobster meat flavored with chive, coriander, and other herbs sat between two quarter-sized discs of fried bread. Black and white sesame seeds studded the top layer. Thus, the dish brought together all of Andy’s cultural influences. The lobster seasonings and sesame seeds provided the subtle Asian flair. The small portion and sophisticated protein choice gave it the European touch. And the choice to fry it made it unequivocally Kuwaiti. (Here, the people eat everything fried!) I loved the dish. Not only did it tell Andy’s personal story in a single bite, but the flavors interacted perfectly. The herbs in the lobster played off of the richness from the fried preparation. Moreover, the sesame seeds provided an enjoyable crunch.

I also shared an order of sliders with my friend. We chose the barbequed sliders that promised to be slow cooked in a house-made barbeque sauce. Apparently, Andy has a touch for Southern cooking as well. The barbeque sauce rivaled some of the best briskets I’ve had in well-known BBQ joints.

The climax of the meal, however, was dessert. As a dessert enthusiast (and dare I say, connoisseur), I was permitted to taste a wide array of Posh’s sweet offerings. We began with Andy’s “signature:” cheesecake in a jar. Although moderately lactose-intolerant, I threw caution to the wind and decided a bite or two wouldn’t do irreversible damage. I am so glad I went for it!!! My friend and I agreed that it was UNBELIEVABLE. Many cheesecakes go overboard with the additions. By adding items like oreos, chocolate, or fruit, they mask the flavor of the cheese. This one did not. Sprinklings of graham cracker and fresh blueberries enhanced the rich notes of the cheese rather than covering it. And like the lobster toasts, the cheesecake was a study in texture. The graham cracker dusting on top lent crunch to the creamy layer of cheesecake below. The bite was harmonious and perfect.

My personal favorite of the day though was the strawberry short cake. It took the form of a layered cake: three layers of vanilla cake with frosting and fresh strawberries in between. The vanilla cake proved perfectly light and fluffy. The frosting, too, was airy; it seemed to wisp away in my mouth. The dessert reminded me of a classic vintage recipe; completely and perfectly old school, an homage to kitchens of the fifties.

And the fun didn’t end there! We tried a carrot cake that also had a vintage vibe. It had spices and raisins of more traditional carrot cake recipes rather than the overly sweet commercialized versions that are so prevalent today. My friend declared this dessert her favorite after the cheesecake and claimed the rest of the plate for herself. In addition, we tried a nutella mousse. While tasty and a beautiful presentation, the high amounts of dairy and cheesy consistency proved a bit much for me, as I’d already indulged in the cheesecake. Our final dish was a dreamy pecan pie. Unlike the other desserts, this one came warm. Usually I can pass on pecan pie because it seems as though the flavor in the pecan filling comes from artificial ingredients like sugar and sweeteners. This pie, however, relied on the pecans themselves. It was pure nutty goodness. The crust, too, was flawless. It was the perfect thickness: thick enough to compliment the robust pecans, but not so thick that it overpowered them. Plus, I like a crust that is just on the brink of burned, slightly crisp. This one achieved that effect.

I certainly took plenty of pictures that I plan to share with you! However, my browser is still set to Arabic and the uploads are extremely difficult. I’ll post them when I get the chance!

While stuffing one’s face with dessert might not be considered “posh,” I certainly enjoyed everything that Posh Café had to offer. From freshness to fusion, spicy to sweet, it will satisfy your every culinary craving.